NET-A-PORTER - MARCH 2002

MARCH 2002

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WHEN DID YOU FIRST KNOW THAT YOU WANTED TO BE A FASHION DESIGNER? DID YOU HAVE AN EPIPHANY MOMENT? 

WHEN I FIRST SAW CLAUDE MONTANA'S COLLECTIONS IN THE LATE '70S, I SAW A NONCONFORMIST, HEROIC COMPLETE VISION THAT WAS ALMOST MYSTICAL. IT SUGGESTED A UTOPIAN FUTURISM WHICH I'D NEVER SEEN IN FASHION BEFORE. 

WHAT KEY EVENTS HAVE DEFINED YOUR CAREER SO FAR AND WHY? 

AMERICAN VOGUE SPONSORING MY FIRST SHOW WAS AN ENDORSEMENT THAT WAS PROBABLY PIVOTAL. AND MOVING TO PARIS GAVE ME A VISIBILITY I WOULDN'T HAVE HAD ELSEWHERE. 

WHO IS THE RICK OWENS WOMAN, AND WHAT MAKES HER TICK? 

I LIKE TO THINK THAT ANY WOMAN CAN RESPOND TO MY CLOTHES. AT FIRST GLANCE MY COLLECTIONS MIGHT SEEM KIND OF SPECIFIC, BUT I WANT THERE TO BE A QUIET GRACE IN THEM THAT CAN SLIP IN ANYWHERE. I WANT TO SPEAK TO THE PART IN ALL OF US THAT TEETERS BETWEEN CONTROL AND ABANDON, AND SELF-ACCEPTANCE. 

WHAT INSPIRES AND MOTIVATES YOU? 

DISCIPLINE, ORDER AND ASPIRATION TO BE A BETTER PERSON. 

DESCRIBE YOUR EXCLUSIVE COLLECTION FOR NET-A-PORTER. 

I WANTED TO CREATE CLOTHES THAT FELT MODESTLY MODERN. RESTRAINED. RATIONAL. BUT RELAXED. 

YOUR STYLING RULES FOR WEARING THE N-A-P EXCLUSIVE COLLECTION? 

TO BE WORN WITH THE CERTAINTY THAT YOU'RE BEING NO ONE BUT YOURSELF—AND THAT'S JUST FINE. 

DO YOU HAVE A STYLE MUSE? 

YES: ALL OF US. 

WHOSE WARDROBE WOULD YOU MOST LIKE TO RAID FOR THE DAY? 

ANNA PIAGGI'S. 

DO YOU HAVE A RECURRING DREAM? 

YEAH. IT USUALLY INVOLVES FALLING APART IN A QUICKSAND OF VICE. I ASSUME IT'S A SUBCONSCIOUS REMINDER TO AVOID THE SELF-DESTRUCTIVE BEHAVIOR OF MY PAST. HANDY LITTLE TRICK. 

WHO WOULD PLAY YOU IN A FILM ABOUT YOUR LIFE? 

CHER. 

WHEN WAS THE LAST TIME YOU LAUGHED SO MUCH IT HURT? 

MY MOM TELLING ME A FUNNY STORY IN AN ICE CREAM PARLOR IN LONDON. SHE HAD ME ON THE FLOOR. AND IT WAS WEIRD ; I ALMOST STARTED CRYING IN THE MIDDLE OF IT BECAUSE I REALIZED HOW MUCH I MISSED SEEING HER MORE OFTEN. 

COMPLETE THIS SENTENCE: I'M MOST PROUD OF… 

...CONVINCING A FAST-PACED WORLD TO TOLERATE A SLOW-PACED DESIGNER. 

HOW DOES MUSIC INFLUENCE YOU AND YOUR DESIGNS? 

PROFOUNDLY. DOING THE MUSIC FOR THE RUNWAY SHOW IS ALMOST AS METICULOUS A JOB AS PUTTING TOGETHER A COLLECTION. I DO IT WITH AN OLD FRIEND IN L.A. WHO HAS DONE EVERY ONE OF MY SHOWS. I PICK SOMETHING THAT MEANS SOMETHING TO ME AND WE DISSECT IT AND SEND SNIPPETS BACK AND FORTH BY COMPUTER. WE COMB THROUGH AND ALTER ALMOST EVERY SECOND OF A 15-MINUTE PIECE. I DELIBERATELY STARTED THIS PROJECT WITH HIM BECAUSE I KNEW WHEN I MOVED TO EUROPE WE WOULD INEVITABLY DRIFT APART UNLESS WE HAD A PROJECT TOGETHER. 

WHAT'S YOUR PARTY TRICK? 

SWOONING. 

DO YOU HAVE A SECRET OBSESSION? 

NOT REALLY. I'M A PRETTY OPEN BOOK. ABOUT AS COMPLICATED AS A CARTOON. 

FAVOURITE PASTIME? 

REORGANIZING AND EDITING STORAGE CLOSETS WITH MONTSERRAT CABALLE PLAYING IN THE BACKGROUND. OR SWIMMING IN THE OCEAN. 

HOW TO YOU KEEP CALM FIVE MINUTES BEFORE A RUNWAY SHOW? 

I SLAM AN ESPRESSO. 

NAME ONE PIECE OF CLOTHING YOU COULDN'T LIVE WITHOUT. 

THE BLACK CASHMERE WRAP MY PARTNERS GIVE ME EVERY BIRTHDAY. IT'S BECOME A TRADITION SIMILAR TO THE CAPE THEY USED TO THROW ON JAMES BROWN WHEN HE WOULD BREAK DOWN AT THE END OF A SONG, REMEMBER? HE WOULD BE LED OUT WRAPPED IN IT AND THEN DRAMATICALLY RECOVER AND LUNGE AT THE MICROPHONE AND FINISH THE SONG. 

MOST TREASURED ITEM AND WHY? 

I SUPPOSE MY PHONE. I DON'T LIKE HAVING SENTIMENTAL ATTACHMENTS TO THINGS, BUT I LOVE BEING A BUTTON AWAY FROM THE PEOPLE I LOVE. 

WHAT ARE YOU DOING AT THIS EXACT MOMENT? 

I'M ON MY WAY TO THE GYM AT MY HOTEL IN THE VILLAGE IN ITALY WHERE THE FACTORY THAT PRODUCES MY CLOTHES IS. I GO EVERY DAY AT 12:30, THEN HAVE LUNCH, TAKE A NAP, AND GO BACK TO WORK. JUST LIKE IN PARIS. 

WHAT IS THE NEXT PROJECT THAT YOU WORKING ON AT THE MOMENT? 

IT'S DECEMBER, SO I'M ADJUSTING THE SAMPLES FOR THE WOMEN'S PRECOLLECTION, THE MEN'S RUNWAY COLLECTION, THE MEN'S AND WOMEN'S SHOE AND BAG COLLECTIONS, THE MEN'S AND WOMEN'S DENIM COLLECTIONS AND THE WOMEN'S LILIES JERSEY COLLECTION—ALL OF WHICH WILL BE SHOWN IN JANUARY. THIS IS OUR BUSIEST TIME. NEXT WEEK I'LL BE WORKING ON THE FURNITURE THAT I'LL BE SHOWING IN NEW YORK LATER THIS YEAR. 

HOW DID YOU DECIDED TO BECOME A FASHION DESIGNER? 

I WENT TO ART SCHOOL TO BE AN ARTIST BUT WASN'T CONFIDENT ENOUGH IN MY INTELLECT, SO DECIDED TO PURSUE FASHION WHICH WAS LESS INTIMIDATING. NOW, I THINK I MIGHT HAVE OVERESTIMATED HOW SMART YOU HAVE TO BE TO MAKE ART. BUT I ALWAYS LIKED FASHION AND I PROBABLY FEEL MORE COMFORTABLE USING A LIGHTER TOUCH. 

DID YOU EVER KNOW THAT YOU'LL BE A DESIGNER? WHEN YOU START, DO YOU THINK 'WHAT IF I FELL; WHAT IF I'M NOT GOOD ENOUGH?'? 

WELL, I DEFINITELY HAD FRUSTRATIONS AND HARD TIMES, BUT I DON'T REMEMBER FEELING I WAS ANY WORSE THAN A LOT OF WHAT I SAW OTHER PEOPLE DOING. IT WAS WHAT IT WAS. 

AT THE BEGINNING, DID YOU KNOW THAT THE FASHION THAT YOU ARE CREATING WOULD BE THAT SUCCESSFUL? 

I'M AS SURPRISED AS YOU ARE THAT I GOT THIS FAR. 

WHICH WAS THE FIRST THING THAT YOU CREATED? AND THE FIRST THING THAT MADE YOU FAMOUS? 

I SUPPOSE IT WAS MY LEATHER JACKETS THAT PEOPLE NOTICED FIRST. CORINNE DAY DID A BEAUTIFUL PICTURE OF KATE MOSS IN ONE FOR FRENCH VOGUE AND I ASKED CORRINE TO KEEP THAT JACKET. LATER I HEARD THAT CORINNE WAS BURIED IN IT. I DO THE SAME JACKETS IN EVERY COLLECTION TODAY. 

WHAT INSPIRES YOU? NATURE, ANIMALS, WOMENS, FAIRIES? WHEN I LOOK AT YOUR COLLECTION I SEE MODERN URBAN NOMADS, WOOD FAIRIES IN A BIG CITY; ROMANTICISM AND NATURE AND MINIMALISTISM AND CITIES? 

I LOVE THE EXTREME OPPOSITES OF NATURE AND CONTROLLED ARTIFICE. AND I LIKE THEM COMBINED. I LIKE TO THINK OF SAVAGE WILDS AND SEVERE ARCHITECTURE. I ALSO LIKE TO THINK OF REDUCTIVE NEEDS. A FUR ON A ROCK NEXT TO A FIRE IN A CAVE. 

ARE YOU EVER INSPIRED BY REAL OR FICTIONAL PLACES? 

BOTH. I'M A REALISTIC UTOPIAN. I LIKE EXTREME DISCIPLINE AND VIRTUE EVEN THOUGH I SUSPECT THEY'RE DELUSIONAL AND POINTLESS. 

WE KNOW THAT MICHELE LAMY IS YOUR MUSE. TELL US MORE ABOUT HER, HOW YOU MET HER, ABOUT YOUR LOVE AND INSPIRATION. 

SHE'S A BEAUTIFUL MAGIC WITCH THAT SEES A MILLION THINGS I DON'T. SHE'S FEROCIOUS, IMPERIOUS AND TENDER. SHE'S THE MOST BARBARIC AND SOPHISTICATED PERSON I'VE EVER MET. WE'VE BEEN TOGETHER OVER 20 YEARS AND IT JUST SEEMS TO GET BETTER. I CAN'T IMAGINE EITHER OF US WITH ANYBODY ELSE. 

TELL ME A BIT MORE ABOUT YOUR CHILDHOOD. WHERE DID YOU GROW UP, WHAT WERE YOUR SURROUNDINGS LIKE, AND WHAT WERE YOU INTERESTED IN? 

I GREW UP A SISSY IN A SMALL JUDGMENTAL TOWN IN CALIFORNIA. I WAS AN ONLY CHILD AND SOCIALLY UNCOMFORTABLE. BY NECESSITY I TOUGHENED UP AS I GOT OLDER BUT SUPPRESSED A CERTAIN AMOUNT OF RAGE THAT PROBABLY STILL FUELS ME TODAY. 

HOW DO YOU PLAN YOUR WORK? DO YOU THINK A LOT BEFORE YOU START CREATING A NEW COLLECTION OR DO YOU RELY ON INSTINCT? 

I TRY NOT TO ANALYZE TOO MUCH, BUT I THINK I PROBABLY EXERT A TREMENDOUS AMOUNT OF EFFORT FORCING MYSELF TO NOT OVERTHINK. 

HOW MANY PEOPLE WORK AT RICK OWENS? 

10 PEOPLE IN MY OFFICE IN PARIS, AND ABOUT 20 IN ITALY. 

HOW IS YOUR SELL-THROUGH NOW THAT WE'RE IN A RECESSION? 

I NEVER EXPECT ANYTHING SO I'M ALWAYS DELIGHTED BY THE RESULTS. I ALWAYS THINK IT'S A MIRACLE WE HAVE ENOUGH FOOD TO EAT 'TIL THE NEXT COLLECTION. 

WHAT IS THE SECRET TO SELLING WELL? 

I JUST TRY AND LISTEN TO MYSELF. LET'S SEE HOW LONG THAT WORKS. 

WHAT'S THE IDEA BEHIND THE SPRING/SUMMER 2011 COLLECTION? 

I WANTED A SEVERE OPULENCE. I WANTED THE LUXURY OF METERS AND METERS OF FRESH SILK AND COTTON SWIRLING AROUND A NAKED BODY IN A SUMMER BREEZE. I WANTED A SACRIFICIAL SUMPTUOUSNESS. 

AND FOR FALL/WINTER 2011? WHAT CAN WE EXPECT? 

IT WILL BE AN EVOLUTION OF SPRING. EVERY COLLECTION IS ALWAYS AN EXTENSION OF THE ONE BEFORE. I WANT THERE TO BE A DELIBERATE RATIONAL PACE TO WHAT I DO. 

IS BLACK YOUR FAVORITE COLOUR? 

NO, GREY IS. 

WHICH IS THE THING THAT YOU ARE MOST PROUD OF? 

I'M PROUDEST OF CONVINCING A FAST-PACED FASHION WORLD TO TOLERATE A SLOW-PACED DESIGNER WHO CAN ONLY WORK IN GREYS. 

HOW TALENTED DOES A PERSON NEED TO BE IN ORDER TO BE A GOOD DESIGNER? 

PROBABLY NOT AS MUCH AS WE THINK. THERE ARE SO MANY OTHER FACTORS THAT MAKE SOMETHING WORK. I'M LUCKY TO HAVE VERY DEVOTED, PROTECTIVE AND WORKAHOLIC PARTNERS. 

WHAT IS IT LIKE LIVING IN PARIS? 

PARIS HAS AN UNFORGIVING, RUTHLESS CHIC. IT HAS MAGIC LIGHT AND A HISTORY OF ARTIFICE AND LITERATURE THAT MADE GROWING UP EASIER FOR ME. 

WHICH IS YOUR FAVORITE SPOT IN PARIS? AND IN THE WORLD? 

I LOVE WALKING THROUGH THE TUILERIES ON THE WAY TO THE GYM. I LOVE THE WAY THE GARDENS CHANGE WITH THE SEASONS AND HOW THEY'VE CHANGED THAT WAY FOR HUNDREDS OF YEARS. I LOVE THE SCALE AND PROPORTIONS OF ITS FLOWERBEDS AND TREE-LINED WALKWAYS. 

AND IN THE WORLD, I SUPPOSE MY FAVORITE PLACE IS ANYWHERE NEXT TO AN OCEAN. 

TELL US ABOUT FURNITURE. 

WELL, FURNITURE IS JUST A NATURAL EXTENSION OF CLOTHES. AFTER THE CLOTHES ARE MADE, THE NEXT STEP IS TO CONTROL AND CREATE THEIR ENVIRONMENT; WHERE THEY SIT AND LEAN AGAINST AND STAND. 

IF YOU COULD CREATE ONLY ONE MORE PIECE OF CLOTHING FOR THE REST YOUR LIFE, WHAT WOULD IT LOOK LIKE? 

IT WOULD BE A SILK JERSEY DJELLABA TO WEAR IN A WALLED GARDEN. 

HOW DID YOUR HEELED BOOTS FOR MEN COME ABOUT? ARE THEY COMFORTABLE?