FW15 SPHINX
MEN
CREDITS
- MAKEUP: LUCIA PERONI (STREETERS)
- HAIR: LUIGI MORENU (STREETERS)
- PROD: LA MODE EN IMAGES
- MUSIC: EXCLUSIVE EXTENDED MIX OF ‘SIPPIN’ AND ‘POSTED’ BY BAMES
NOTES
THE RICK OWENS MEN’S FW15 ‘SPHINX’ COLLECTION IS ABOUT COMPRESSION.IT’S ABOUT PRESSURE BUILT-UP IN SILENT VESSELS FILLED WITH ENERGY. INSPIRED BY A FORGOTTEN BLACK AND WHITE FRENCH MOVIE SET IN A MILITARY SUBMARINE, THE MOOD IS ABOUT THE STRAIN OF PRESERVING REASON UNDER EXTREME PRESSURE. THIS COLLECTION FETISHIZES THE NAUTICAL PEACOAT AND CABLE KNIT SWEATER. PEACOATS ARE CUT IN BARREL SHAPES, FITTED SHAPES OR FLARED SHAPES FROM HANDWOVEN AND CUSTOM DYED BERBER WOOL BLANKETS. TURBO-CABLED SWEATERS ARE HANDKNIT IN ITALY FROM A CHUNKY BUT LIGHT BLEND OF SILK AND CASHMERE. BUT THEN THINGS START WARPING PEACOATS TURN UPSIDE DOWN, BECOME CAPES AND MORPH INTO SWEATSHIRTS. THE CABLES IN CABLE KNIT SWEATERS VEER OVER THE TORSO DIAGONALLY AND DELINEATE THE BODY GEOMETRICALLY BEFORE TRAVELLING DOWN BETWEEN THE LEGS TO BECOME BODY BAGS. EMBROIDERED AND SEQUINED LINEAR PATTERNS REMINISCENT OF THE SUPREMATIST ART MOVEMENT EMBELLISH SOME PIECES, ADDING A FAILED ATTEMPT AT ORDER. THE SENSE OF DISINTEGRATION IS EMPHASIZED BY THE LOOPING SYNTHS IN AN EXCLUSIVE MIX BY BAMES A NEW WEIRD TRAP DUO FROM AUSTIN, TEXAS.
WOMEN
CREDITS
- MAKEUP: MAC COSMETICS AND LUCIA PERONI (STREETERS)
- HAIR: LUIGI MORENU (STREETERS)
- PROD: LA MODE EN IMAGES
- MUSIC: EXCLUSIVE EXTENDED MIX OF ‘POSTED’ AND ‘CHROME EAGLE’ BY BAMES
NOTES
IF THE MEN’S FALL WINTER SPHINX COLLECTION WAS ABOUT ANARCHY AND ARCADIA, THE RICK OWENS FW 15 WOMEN’S COLLECTION SHARES THE SAME NAME AND SAME MOOD WITH MORE ARCADIA AND LESS ANARCHY. THESE ARE DRAPED ROBES AND SCULPTED WOOL FELTS IN SILHOUETTES THAT HAVE A BIT OF A CEREMONY-IN-THE-WOODS VIBE TO THEM FLAT SANDALS AND SOCKS CALM THEM DOWN.
AFTER STUDYING FRANK LLOYD WRIGHT’S HOLLYHOCK HOUSE FOR YEARS, I PROPOSE THAT LIVING UP TO THAT KIND OF INTERIOR MIGHT LOOK SOMETHING LIKE THIS. FROM WHAT I UNDERSTAND, SOME OF WRIGHT’S MOTIFS OF FLORA TRACED IN ANGULAR LINES HAD ITS ROOTS IN MAYAN CULTURE, AS DO I ON MY MOTHER’S SIDE. MAYBE NOW IS A GOOD TIME TO START EXPLORING THAT. BLOSSOM MOTIFS ARE ABSTRACTED INTO GEOMETRIC DIAGRAMS AND EMBROIDERED ON TUNICS OF PRISMATICALLY PATCHED MONOCHROMATIC FELTS AND FUR.
BACK-FASTENED SHELLS AND MANTLES HAVE EXCESS FABRIC CASCADING DOWN THE BACK FOR A WINDBLOWN PROFILE WITH JUTTING HIPS THAT MAKE ME THINK OF THE GRACEFUL LINES OF A SEAHORSE. DRAPED AND PADDED CONFECTIONS HAVE THE EASE AND UTILITY OF A COTTON DUCK WINDBREAKER. DRAPED AND TWISTED SHIFTS COME IN LIGHTLY PADDED NYLON OR SUEDE SEAMED WITH TUFTS OF WISPY, FEATHERY FUR.