FW21 GETHSEMANE

MEN

INFO

• THURSDAY 21 JANUARY 2021, 12H30 CET
• LIDO VENEZIA, ITALY
• GALLERY: [ RICKOWENS.EU ]

CREDITS

• CASTING: PRODUCTION AM CASTING (CLM)
• PRODUCTION: LA MODE EN IMAGES KNOW HOW PRODUCTIONS (VENICE)
• MUSIC: EXCLUSIVE EXTENDED MIX OF ‘HELLRAP’ BY GHOSTEMANE
• SPECIAL THANKS: PALAZZO EXPERIMENTAL HOTEL, PATRONATO DI SANTA MARIA ELISABETTA, CITTA DI VENEZIA

NOTES

GETHSEMANE WAS THE GARDEN JESUS PRAYED IN THE NIGHT BEFORE THE CRUCIFIXION; A PLACE OF UNEASY REPOSE AND DISQUIET BEFORE A FINAL RECKONING. WE’RE ALL LIVING A TENSE PERIOD IN HISTORY WAITING FOR A RESOLUTION, BE IT CATASTROPHIC OR RATIONAL, IN A SUSPENSE THAT FEELS ALMOST BIBLICAL IN ITS DRAMA – PRIMITIVE AND PROFANE.

JKTS AND COATS IN LEATHER AND SHEARLING THAT SEAL THE BODY WITH INTEGRATED GLOVES AND ZIP UP OVER THE FACE SPEAK OF PROTECTION AND WITHDRAWAL. HORROR.

SKIN TIGHT LEATHER BODYSUITS UNDERPIN MOST LOOKS, SOME WITH THE TOP PULLED DOWN TO HANG OFF THE HIPS. SHARP, EXAGGERATED SHOULDERS ON TAILORED COATS AND CROPPED BOMBERS MOCK MALE CONSERVATISM CAREENING OFF THE RAILS.

HEAVY RECYCLED CASHMERE SWEATERS TWIST AROUND THE BODY – THEY CAN PULL UP TO DOUBLE OR PEEL DOWN TO TRAIL OFF THE BODY. THE SAME YARNS ARE USED TO KNIT ROOMY BLANKET- SIZED HOODED ROBES. BIBLICAL.

THESE HOODED ROBES ARE REPEATED IN DUVET WHICH ALSO COMES IN CROPPED JKTS PEELING OFF THE TORSO.

TIGHTY-WHITIES WITH PENTAGRAM FLYS ADD MORE UNHINGED MALE ENERGY WHEN WORN WITH THIGH HIGH COWHIDE FUR BOOTS – WITH A PLATFORM HEEL OR A BALLAST SOLE – UNDER COATS MADE FROM RECYCLED PLASTIC WASTE WITH THE SLEEVES RIPPED OFF. HAIRY LEGS, ORGANIC PENTAGRAM UNDERWEAR, AND JUMBO RECYCLED COATS WITH PANDEMIC MASKS – A ROUGH SKETCH OF OUR BARBARIC CONTRADICTORY TIMES.

DRAGGING OVERSIZED JEANS ARE IN 16OZ BLACK WARP/BLACK WEFT/BLACK SELVEDGE DENIM CUSTOM WOVEN FOR US BY YAMAASHI ORIMONO (EST. 1945) ON VINTAGE SAKAMOTO SHUTTLE LOOMS. THIS IS FROM AN ONGOING DRKSHDW CAPSULE MADE IN JAPAN.

THE RAMONES WERE ALWAYS ONE OF MY FAVORITE BANDS – LOUD AND DUMB CAN ALSO BE CONCISE AND ELEGANT… THEY HAD THE WHOLE PACKAGE – THE RIGHT ATTITUDE, THE RIGHT CHORDS, THE RIGHT HIP BONES, THE RIGHT GRAPHICS, THE RIGHT HAIR, AND THE RIGHT SHOES – CONVERSE. YEARS AGO, I DID MY OWN DUMBER AND LOUDER VERSION OF THESE SNEAKERS AND THIS SEASON CONVERSE AGREED TO GRAFT MY CRUDE VERSION ONTO THEIR ORIGINAL AND MUTATE THEIR SIGNATURE TOE CAP. THE TONGUE IS EXTENDED AND THE LABEL AND LICENSE PLATES ARE ALTERED TO REFLECT THE DRKSHDW COLLABORATION.

THE SOUNDTRACK IS AN EXCLUSIVE EXTENDED REMIX OF ‘HELLRAP’ BY GHOSTEMANE THAT SPEAKS TO THE MALE SUPPRESSED RAGE ON EVERY SIDE OF THE MORAL DIVIDE…

WOMEN

INFO

• THURSDAY 04 MARCH 2021, 17H30 CET
• LIDO VENEZIA, ITALY
• GALLERY: [ RICKOWENS.EU ]

CREDITS

• CASTING: AM CASTING (CLM)
• PRODUCTION: LA MODE EN IMAGES, KNOW HOW PRODUCTIONS (VENICE)
• MUSIC: EXCLUSIVE EXTENDED MIX OF ‘SQUEEZE’ BY GHOSTEMANE
• SPECIAL THANKS: MAREA HOTEL PETIT PALAIS, PALAZZO EXPERIMENTAL HOTEL, CITTA DI VENEZIA

NOTES

GETHSEMANE WAS THE GARDEN JESUS PRAYED IN THE NIGHT BEFORE THE CRUCIFIXION; A PLACE OF UNEASY REPOSE AND DISQUIET BEFORE A FINAL RECKONING. WE’VE ALL BEEN LIVING A TENSE PERIOD IN HISTORY WAITING FOR A RESOLUTION, BE IT CATASTROPHIC OR RATIONAL, IN A SUSPENSE THAT FEELS ALMOST BIBLICAL IN ITS DRAMA. MY GARDEN IS THE BEACH IN FRONT OF MY HOME ON VENICE’S LIDO. MY PANDEMIC RUNWAY SHOWS HAVE ALL BEEN ON THE LIDO — A 2-HOUR DRIVE FROM MY FACTORY IN CONCORDIA AND A SMALLER FOOTPRINT, PARED-DOWN, NO AUDIENCE, HOME-BASED MOOD THAT FEELS SUITABLE FOR THE MOMENT. THIS REDUCTION IN IMPORTED HAIR AND MAKEUP AND PRODUCTION ARMIES HAS ALLOWED THESE SHOWS TO TURN INTO PRIVATE CEREMONIES SHARED BY OUR SMALL CONCORDIA TEAM FROM CONCEPTION TO CLIMAX, ALLOWING US TO CONNECT IN A WHOLE NEW WAY AFTER 15 YEARS OF PARIS SHOWS. SKIN-TIGHT LEATHER BODYSUITS UNDERPIN MOST LOOKS, SOME WITH THE TOP PULLED DOWN TO HANG OFF THE HIPS. SOME ARE SOLIDLY SEQUINED. I’VE BEEN FEATURING BODYSUITS FOR SOME SEASONS NOW, ORIGINALLY AS MONUMENTALLY IMPOSING STIFF VOLUMES BUT GRADUALLY REDUCING TO THEIR CURRENT INCARNATION — SELF-CONTAINED AND SEALED BODY COVERINGS LIKE AN UPHOLSTERED GEAR SHIFT KNOB. THESE ARE TOPPED BY POWER SHOULDER CAPES THAT TURN THE BODY INTO ARCHITECTURAL BULLDOZERS, OR POWER SHOULDER BOMBERS MOCKING MALE AGGRESSION AND CONSERVATISM CAREENING OFF THE RAILS THAT WAS THE FOCUS OF MY MEN’S SHOW IN JANUARY — COINCIDING WITH THE SHOCKING EVENTS IN WASHINGTON. THESE SHOULDERS ARE A RESPONSE TO FEAR AND ANXIETY; DEFIANCE IN THE FACE OF THREAT. I HAVE SHOWN MASKS WITH THESE PANDEMIC SHOWS NOT BECAUSE MY MASKS ARE GUARANTEED PROTECTION, BUT BECAUSE THEY ARE A VOTE FOR RESPONSIBILITY AND CONSIDERATION AND AN ACKNOWLEDGEMENT OF OUR IMMEDIATE COLLECTIVE EXPERIENCE. TAILORED JKTS MADE FROM RECYCLED PLASTIC WASTE ARE CROPPED WITH THE SLEEVES RIPPED OFF AND REPLACED WITH JUMBO DUVET SNAP-ON SLEEVES. IN THE BIBLE, THE RENDING OF ONES GARMENTS IS AN ACT OF GRIEF OR RAGE — TO VIOLENTLY TEAR THE CLOTHES ONE IS WEARING APART. THIS IS THE SIGNIFICANCE OF THE SLASHED BLACK DENIM PIECES IN THE COLLECTION, MIRRORED IN THE SLASHED GRAPHICS RENDERED IN BY- PRODUCT SHEARLINGS AND COWHIDES PATCHWORKED INTO COATS AND JACKETS. NARROW BACKLESS LONG-SLEEVED SHEATH GOWNS ARE CUT IN HEAVY VISCOSE KNIT, SEQUINS, OR BLACK OVERDYED DENIM. LIKE THE BODYSUITS, THEIR TOPS ARE OFTEN PULLED DOWN TO HANG OFF THE HIPS AND WORN WITH A T-SHIRT. RUCHED AND SEQUINED THONGS ARE WORN OVER RECYCLED CASHMERE BODYSUITS TO ADD A LURID FLOURISH TO MATTER-OF-FACT AND PRACTICAL MODESTY. THESE RECYCLED CASHMERE YARNS ARE ALSO KNIT INTO HEAVY SWEATERS, PULLED UP TO DOUBLE ON THE TORSO, AND ROOMY BLANKET-SIZED HOODED ROBES. BIBLICAL. THESE HOODED ROBES ARE REPEATED IN TENT-SIZED DUVET OR SEQUIN ENCRUSTED DENIM.

THE PENTA-BRIEFS FROM THE LAST MEN’S SHOW THAT SPOKE OF UNHINGED MALE AGGRESSION ARE WRAPPED AROUND SIMPLE COWHIDE ENVELOPES TO BE WORN AS A WOMAN’S EVENING CLUTCH. HEAVY WORK SHIRTS WORN OVER GOWNS COME IN 16OZ BLACK WARP/BLACK WEFT/BLACK SELVEDGE DENIM CUSTOM WOVEN FOR US BY YAMAASHI ORIMONO (EST. 1945) ON VINTAGE SAKAMOTO SHUTTLE LOOMS. THIS IS FROM AN ONGOING DRKSHDW CAPSULE MADE IN JAPAN. SOUNDTRACK IS AN EXCLUSIVE EXTENDED REMIX OF ‘SQUEEZE’ BY GHOSTEMANE, WHO ALSO SOUNDTRACKED OUR LAST MEN’S SHOW THAT SPOKE ABOUT MALE SUPPRESSED RAGE ON EVERY SIDE OF THE MORAL DIVIDE… BUT OF COURSE, SUPPRESSED RAGE IS NOT EXCLUSIVELY MALE.