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SS22 FOGACHINE

SS22 FOGACHINE MEN'S

MEN

INFO

CREDITS

  • CASTING: AM CASTING (CLM)
  • PRODUCTION: LA MODE EN IMAGES KNOW HOW PRODUCTIONS (VENICE)
  • MUSIC: EXCLUSIVE EXTENDED MIX OF ‘GODZILLA ATOMIC LAZER BREATH’ BY MOCHIPET
  • SPECIAL THANKS: HOTEL EXCELSIOR VENICE LIDO / MAREA HOTEL PETIT PALAIS / PALAZZO EXPERIMENTAL HOTEL / CITTA DI VENEZIA

NOTES

THIS WILL BE OUR FOURTH AND LAST COVID ERA SHOW SET ON THE VENEZIA LIDO BEACH WHERE I LIVE HALF THE YEAR AND WHERE MY TEAM CAN JOIN ME FROM OUR FACTORY A SHORT DRIVE AWAY. DOING LIVE SHOWS HERE FELT LIKE THE RIGHT THING TO DO DURING THIS STRAINED MOMENT — IT FELT REDUCED, INTIMATE, HONEST AND RAW — DOING LIVE STREAM SHOWS ON THE BEACH IN FRONT OF MY HOUSE FELT LIKE A RETREAT BUT NOT A DEFEAT.

WITH A POST-COVID IN VIEW THERE MIGHT BE A SENSE OF FRUSTRATED APPETITES DEMANDING TO BE DOUBLY SATISFIED THIS SUMMER THAT MIGHT MAKE FOR A VORACIOUSNESS FORGETTING THE HUMBLING EXPERIENCE WE ALL JUST WENT THROUGH TOGETHER. THIS COLLECTION EMBRACES HEDONISM BUT IN A SOFT, GRATEFUL WAY REFLECTING THIS NEW PERIOD OF CONTRADICTIVELY TRYING TO MIX GLAM WITH RESPONSIBILITY AND THOUGHTFULNESS.

WHITE-MAGIC-HOUSES-OF-THE-HOLY-STAIRWAY-TO-HEAVEN HIPPIES WEAR BAGGY, DRAGGING FLARES OVER PLATFORMS, WITH ECO COTTON DISCO BODYSUIT/BATHERS (ECODISCO!) UNDER TRANSPARENT SHIRTS OR TRANSPARENTLY TAILORED MONSTER-SHOULDERED BLAZERS AND COATS.

MY COMFORT LEVEL WITH OUR TAILORING CREW HAS LET ME REALLY SAVOR DEVELOPING THE INTERIOR STRUCTURAL PROCESS… AND EXPOSING IT… AND CELEBRATING ITS CONFECTION. WE SLICED INTO OUR COATS AND JKTS, RIPPING OFF SLEEVES, DEEPENING ARMHOLES, CUTTING AWAY FRONTS AND BACKS AND RENDERING EVERYTHING IN UNDYED COTTON ORGANDIES AND UNDYED SILK CHIFFONS THAT EXPOSE THE COMPLEXITY OF THE STRUCTURAL INTERLININGS BENEATH.

THE DRAGGING DENIMS ARE IN 16OZ BLACK, NATURAL, OR ORANGE SELVEDGE DENIM CUSTOM WOVEN FOR US BY YAMAASHI ORIMONO (EST. 1945) ON VINTAGE SAKAMOTO SHUTTLE LOOMS. THIS IS FROM AN ONGOING DRKSHW CAPSULE MADE IN KURASHIKI, OKAYAMA PREFECTURE, JAPAN.

DENIMS NOT COMING FROM OUR JAPAN CAPSULE ARE GOTS (GLOBAL ORGANIC TEXTILE STANDARD) CERTIFIED ORGANIC COTTON FROM A LOCAL ITALIAN MILL FOUNDED IN 1597. SNAP FRONT SHIRTS (THIS GENERATION’S BLAZER!), COME IN CHIFFON, CRISP COTTON, AND A TRANSPARENT FOG NYLON ALSO USED TO MAKE DIAPHANOUS FOG HOODIES. A HAND-KNOTTED BLANCHED COQ FEATHER JKT IS PRODUCED BY MAISON FÉVRIER (EST 1929), THE LAST OPERATING PLUMASSIER IN PARIS, WHO ONCE DID PIECES FOR JOSEPHINE BAKER. BRUTALIST CHOKERS ARE FROM AN ONGOING JEWELRY COLLECTION PRODUCED BY GOOSSENS, THE MAISON THAT ONCE PRODUCED JEWELRY FOR COCO CHANEL, CRISTOBAL BALENCIAGA, AND MADAME GRÈS IN THE 1950S. PERSONAL NON-TOXIC FOG MACHINES COME IN 3 SIZES — SMALL TO INSERT IN THE SIDE POCKETS ADDED TO OUR PLATFORM BOOTS… A CARRY-ON SIZE… AND A COFFEE TABLE SIZE. WE CONTINUE INCLUDING JKTS AND BAGS IN PIRARUCU DRAGON SCALE LEATHER, A FOOD BYPRODUCT PRODUCED BY INDIGENOUS COMMUNITIES IN BRAZIL.

DURING THESE LIDO SHOWS, WE MADE FRIENDS WITH SWAMPGOD, A YOUNG CREATOR WHO LIVES DOWN THE BEACH FROM ME, AND I INVITED HIM TO COME VISIT THE FACTORY AND RIP OLD STOCK APART TO RECONFIGURE THEM INTO NEW PIECES THAT END UP BEING DECONSTRUCTIONS OF MY DECONSTRUCTIONS, SOME INCLUDED IN THIS COLLECTION. HE ALSO AGREED TO MODEL FOR THIS SHOW. ALL OUR COTTON JERSEYS ARE WOVEN FROM GOTS CERTIFIED ORGANIC COTTON. LANGUID SHIRTS AND PANTS ARE IN BIODEGRADABLE COTTON WASTE CUPRO OR FSC CERTIFIED VISCOSE. OBVIOUSLY, WE/I STILL HAVE A WAYS TO GO TOWARDS OUR SUSTAINABILITY EFFORTS BUT WE ALL CAN AIM HIGHER AND START SOMEWHERE. THE SOUNDTRACK IS A CUSTOM DERANGED MIX BY MOCHIPET — A DISTORTED HALLUCINOGENIC SOUNDSCAPE THAT CAPTURES THE WARPED PERIOD OF HEDONISM COMING UP. IT’S GONNA BE A GLUTTONOUS SUMMER, STAY SAFE.

SS22 FOGACHINE WOMEN'S

WOMEN

INFO

  • THURSDAY 30 SEPTEMBER 2021, 12H00 CET
  • PALAIS DE TOKYO, 13 AVENUE DU PRÉSIDENT WILSON, 75116 PARIS
  • GALLERY: [ RICKOWENS.EU ]
  • VIDEO: [ VIMEO ] // [ YOUTUBE ]

CREDITS

  • CASTING: AM CASTING (CLM)
  • HAIR: DUFFY (STREETERS)
  • MAKEUP: MAC COSMETICS AND DANIEL SALLSTROM (MA WORLD GROUP)
  • PRODUCTION: LA MODE EN IMAGES
  • MUSIC: EXCLUSIVE EXTENDED MIX OF ‘GODZILLAFATHER’ BY MOCHIPET

NOTES

AFTER FOUR COVID ERA SHOWS LIVESTREAMED FROM MY HOME ON VENEZIA’S LIDO BEACH, RETURNING BOMBASTICALLY AT FULL BLAST TO THE PALAIS DE TOKYO PARVIS SEEMED TO IGNORE THE HUMBLING EXPERIENCE WE ALL WENT THROUGH TOGETHER; AND ARE STILL EXPERIENCING. THOSE COVID SHOWS WERE ABOUT DEFIANT FEROCITY IN THE FACE OF ADVERSITY BUT SHOULD RETURNING TO THE PARIS RUNWAYS BE ABOUT HUMILITY AND A LESSON LEARNED? OR CARPE DIEM?

THERE IS A BRISK LOGIC TO THE PURSUIT OF BEAUTY ABOVE ALL ELSE THAT HAS ALWAYS APPEALED TO ME AND THE ENDLESS HONING AND REFINING OF CREATIVE SIGNATURES IN THOSE THAT I HAVE ALWAYS ADMIRED. FOCUSING ON THAT SEEMED LIKE THE RIGHT MOVE.

SCULPTED BODYSUITS IN BLACK MATTE LACQUERED STRETCH DENIM ARE PEELED DOWN TO FORM ABSTRACT SKIRTS AND WORN OVER PLATFORM THIGH HIGH WADERS NOW SLICED INTO SPINDLY SPARTAN BOOTS… WORN WITH EASY T-SHIRTS SPLICED WITH THE THINNEST NYLON THAT FLOATS IN THE AIR LIKE THE FOG THIS COLLECTION WAS NAMED AFTER. TAILORING HAS CRISP, SHARP SHOULDERS IN MICROJACKETS, OR COATS WITH THE SIDES CARVED OUT IN AN HOURGLASS SHAPE — CUT IN COTTON ORGANDY AND SILK MOUSSELINE TO EXPOSE THE COMPLEXITY OF THE STRUCTURAL INTERLININGS BENEATH.

GEOMETRIC CUTOUTS BLUNTLY EXPOSE FLESH AT TIMES WHILE ROBES AND CLOAKS CUT IN FLOWING COQ FEATHER ENCRUSTED TULLE OR RIGID COTTON FAILLE SOLEMNLY CONCEAL. LEATHER AND NYLON BOMBERS OUTLINE THE FEMALE EQUIVALENT OF LE CORBUSIER’S MODULAR MAN AND ARE WORN OVER FLARED JEAN SKIRTS IN 16OZ BLACK, NATURAL, OR ORANGE SELVEDGE DENIM CUSTOM WOVEN FOR US BY YAMAASHI ORIMONO (EST. 1945) ON VINTAGE SAKAMOTO SHUTTLE LOOMS. THIS IS FROM AN ONGOING DRKSHDW CAPSULE MADE IN KURASHIKI, OKAYAMA PREFECTURE, JAPAN. GIRDERED BUBBLE JKTS WITH HARD, STRONG SHOULDERS AND RUCHED CHIFFON BODIES PROVIDE ARCHITECTURAL CONFECTION IN SOLID BRIGHTS OR SOFT BLEEDING DÉGRADÉS. MULTICOLORED MOHAIR SPIDERWEB KNITS COVER THE BODY IN DRIPPING LAYERS OF REMOVABLE ARMS AND HOODS.

BRUTALIST CHOKERS ARE FROM AN ONGOING JEWELRY COLLECTION PRODUCED BY GOOSSENS, THE MAISON THAT ONCE PRODUCED JEWELRY FOR COCO CHANEL, CRISTÓBAL BALENCIAGA, AND MADAME GRÈS IN THE 1950S. PERSONAL NON-TOXIC FOG MACHINES COME IN 3 SIZES — SMALL TO INSERT INTO THE ZIPPED POCKETS OF PYTHON GLOVES, A CARRY ON SIZE, AND A COFFEE TABLE SIZE. WE CONTINUE INCLUDING JKTS AND BAGS IN PIRARUCU DRAGON SCALE LEATHER, A FOOD BYPRODUCT PRODUCED BY INDIGENOUS COMMUNITIES IN BRAZIL.

DENIMS NOT COMING FROM OUR JAPAN CAPSULE ARE GOTS CERTIFIED ORGANIC COTTON FROM A LOCAL ITALIAN MILL FOUNDED IN 1597.

MODELS WALK THROUGH FALLING JASMINE LEAVES GATHERED FROM THE PLANTS ON MY LIDO TERRACE IN MEMORY OF OUR COVID SHOWS THERE.

THE SOUNDTRACK IS A CUSTOM REMIX BY MOCHIPET — A DISTORTED SOUNDSCAPE OF HARDNESS THAT REFLECTS THE CURT DETERMINED HEDONISM OF THE MOMENT, AND MY WARINESS OF IT.