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SS24 LIDO

SS24 LIDO MEN'S

MEN

INFO

  • THURSDAY 22 JUNE 2023, 12H30 CET
  • PALAIS DE TOKYO, 13 AVENUE DU PRÉSIDENT WILSON, 75116 PARIS
  • GALLERY: [ RICKOWENS.EU ]
  • VIDEO: [ VIMEO (LIVESTREAM) ] // [ YOUTUBE (LIVESTREAM) ]

CREDITS

  • CASTING: AM CASTING (CLM)
  • HAIR: DUFFY (STREETERS)
  • MAKEUP: MAC COSMETICS AND DANIEL SALLSTROM (MA WORLD GROUP)
  • PRODUCTION: LA MODE EN IMAGES
  • MUSIC: EXCLUSIVE MIX BY LIL TEXAS

NOTES

WITH OUR WORLD CONDITIONS UNDER INCREASING THREAT, JUBILANCE SEEMS LIKE THE WRONG NOTE BUT MAYBE IT’S THE ONLY CORRECT MORAL RESPONSE? BEYOND BEING NICE TO EACH OTHER, ISN’T PERSONAL JOY WHAT WE ARE PUT ON EARTH TO DO?

CONSIDERING JOY A MORAL OBLIGATION, I PROPOSE A GRIM, DETERMINED ELEGANCE, ALL IN A FORMAL, RESTRAINED, ALBEIT ADMITTEDLY DRAMA QUEEN, BLACK. HOW ONE HANDLES ADVERSITY IS WHAT DEFINES ONE’S CHARACTER.

STRICT STRUCTURED TROUSERS IN WOOL, SILK OR COTTON FAILLE ARE HIGH AND CINCH WAISTED AND SKIM THE LEG FLARING OUT TO DRAG ON THE FLOOR, AND ARE PAIRED WITH SILK OR LEATHER T-SHIRTS THAT WRAP AND STRETCH AND TWIST AND DRAPE AROUND THE UPPER TORSO.

CROPPED TAILORED JKTS IN GOTS CERTIFIED ORGANIC COTTON ORGANDY OR SILK GAZAR HAVE TRANSPARENT SILK ORGANZA LININGS TO REVEAL THE INTRICATE CONFECTION OF THE INNER CONSTRUCTION. SHARPLY EXTENDED SHOULDERS ARE CAUGHT WITH A SKINNY KNIT SLEEVE TO CONTROL THE VOLUME AND ELONGATE THE ARM.

THIS CONSTRUCTION IS EXTENDED TO COATS THAT CREATE AN IMPOSING SILHOUETTE WHILE BEING AIRY AND LIGHT AS A FEATHER THANKS TO THE MILLE-FEUILLE CONSTRUCTION OF THE THINNEST, LIGHTEST, CRISP LAYERS OF SHEEREST SILKS. SILK ALSO COMES IN WEIGHTLESS HABOTAI USED FOR SHIRTS, TUNICS AND ROBES THAT FLOAT AROUND THE FIGURE IN CONSTANT MOVEMENT. ALL SILKS IN THIS COLLECTION ARE WOVEN IN THE COMO REGION A FEW HOURS DRIVE FROM OUR FACTORY.

TAILORING ALSO COMES IN PURE WOOL GRAIN DE POUDRE WOVEN FOR US AS PART OF A CAPSULE IN COLLABORATION WITH BONOTTO, A 4TH GENERATION TEXTILE MILL FOUNDED IN 1912 SITUATED JUST BELOW THE PREALPS IN VENETO, ITALY. WOVEN ON 1950S JAPANESE LOOMS, WITH RWS CERTIFIED WOOL WHICH ENSURES A HIGH STANDARD IN ANIMAL WELFARE, ENVIRONMENTAL SUSTAINABILITY, AND SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY, EACH BALE OF WOOL IS TRACEABLE BACK TO ITS SOURCE. BONOTTO ALSO INCIDENTALLY HAS ONE OF THE LARGEST FLUXUS ART COLLECTIONS IN THE WORLD.

SHORTS, TANK TOPS, AND JKTS ARE MADE IN OILY CALF LEATHER VEG TANNED USING WOODEN DRUMS IN SANTA CROCE SULL’ARNO, TUSCANY, ITALY BY A SMALL FAMILY OWNED TANNERY WITH A LWG GOLD RATING. THE LWG CERTIFICATION ENSURES TRACEABILITY OF RAW MATERIALS, HIGH ENVIRONMENTAL STANDARDS, AND EFFICIENT USE OF ENERGY AND WATER CONSUMPTION IN THE TANNING PROCESS.

FROM A CONTINUING CAPSULE MADE IN JAPAN, WE PRESENT LEATHER JACKETS MADE IN 1MM OIL WAX CALF LEATHER, TANNED IN TATSUNO, HYŌGO PREFECTURE AND SEWN IN ATSUGI, KANAGAWA PREFECTURE.

CUTOFF SHORTS AND CARGO PANTS ARE CUT IN 13OZ JAPANESE SELVEDGE DENIM, STONE WASHED, OVER-DYED AND WAXED AT OUR DENIM WASH HOUSE IN VENETO, ITALY USING ONLY ZDHC CERTIFIED PRODUCTS AND UTILIZING A WATER PURIFYING PROCESS THAT ENABLES THEM TO RECYCLE A LARGE PORTION OF THE WATER USED.

ALL JERSEY TOPS ARE IN GOTS CERTIFIED ORGANIC COTTON BY A MILL LOCATED 20KM FROM OUR HOME BASE IN CONCORDIA.

SILK BANDANAS COME PRINTED WITH AN IMAGE FROM RON ATHEY’S 2014 PERFORMANCE ‘INCORRUPTIBLE FLESH’. I HAVE KNOWN AND ADMIRED RON SINCE THE 1980S AND HAVE MARVELLED AT THE AESTHETIC HE HAS DEVELOPED AND FULLY COMMITTED HIMSELF TO SINCE THEN.

SHOES COME IN A SANDAL VERSION OF LAST SEASON’S SPLINT BOOTS IN A HEELED VERSION AND TWO HEIGHTS OF FLAT SOLES. THERE IS ALSO A TRIPLE STRAPPED HOOF SPLINT. LIKE HAVING LEATHER PILLOWS STRAPPED TO YOUR FEET.

I RECENTLY REALISED THAT FEW KNOW OUR LABELS HAVE BEEN HAND STAMPED IN OUR VILLAGE FOR THE LAST 20 YEARS BY GIORGIA MALAVASI, A RETIRED RELATION OF ONE OF OUR TEAM. HAND STAMPED LABELS WERE ONE OF THE THINGS I DIDN’T WANT TO CHANGE WHEN I STARTED PRODUCING MY FIRST COLLECTIONS INDUSTRIALLY IN ITALY AND WILL CONTINUE THIS TRADITION AS LONG AS THIS LABEL EXISTS.

SS24 LIDO WOMEN'S

WOMEN

INFO

CREDITS

  • CASTING: AM CASTING (CLM)
  • HAIR: DUFFY (STREETERS)
  • MAKEUP: MAC COSMETICS AND DANIEL SALLSTROM (MA WORLD GROUP)
  • PRODUCTION: LA MODE EN IMAGES
  • MUSIC: EXCLUSIVE MIX OF ‘I STILL BELIEVE’ BY DIANA ROSS

NOTES

I WENT TO A BJÖRK CONCERT EARLIER THIS MONTH AND HER INTELLIGENT, LIFE AFFIRMING ENERGY MADE ME KIND OF EMBARRASSED OF MY OWN MOPEY ADOLESCENT PESSIMISM… AND HERS WASN’T A DISNEY ESCAPIST OBLIVIOUSNESS, BUT A CONCERNED AND THOUGHTFUL TRUST IN MOVING FORWARD. SHE EXPRESSED HOPE.

I SUPPOSE I EXPRESS RESIGNATION. MY DEFAULT SETTING IS TO PROPOSE A MORE SOMBER SOBRIETY RESPECTFUL OF AN AILING AND STRUGGLING WORLD OBSERVING A WAR.

MY ENTHUSIASM IS MORE TEMPERED AND SUSPICIOUS. BUT I TRY TO EXPRESS THE HOPE FOR JOY WHILE CAUTIONING EMPATHY AND RESPONSIBILITY.

CONSIDERING JOY A MORAL OBLIGATION, I PROPOSE A STARK ELEGANCE, MOSTLY IN DRAMA QUEEN BLACK AND GENTLE GREY, BUT ALSO MOMENTS OF TENDER PINK AND EXULTANT RED.

STRICT, STRUCTURED SKIRTS AND TROUSERS IN LEATHER OR OVERDYED DENIM ARE HIGH WAISTED AND NARROW AND LONG. THESE ARE PAIRED WITH MODEST JERSEY OR SUMPTUOUS LEATHER TOPS THAT WRAP AND STRETCH AND DRAPE AROUND THE UPPER TORSO. CROPPED VARIATIONS OF LEATHER BIKER JACKETS ALSO REVEAL AND DEFINE THE WAIST, SOME WITH SCULPTED SHOULDERS THAT DISTORT AND CORRUPT THE FIGURE INSTEAD OF DECORATE IT.

ALL OUR JERSEYS ARE INGOTS CERTIFIED ORGANIC COTTON BY A MILL LOCATED 20 KM FROM OUR HOME BASE IN CONCORDIA, ITALY

LEATHER GLOVE STOLES ARE MADE BY A 5TH GENERATION FAMILY COMPANY FOUNDED IN 1923 AND SITUATED IN THE CENTER OF NAPLES, ITALY. EACH STOLE GLOVE TAKES NO LESS THAN 25 STAGES TO PRODUCE, CARRIED OUT STRICTLY BY HAND.

OUR CALF LEATHER IS VEG TANNED IN THE SOLOFRA AREA OUTSIDE OF NAPLES, ITALY. I HAVE WORKED WITH THIS TANNERY EVERY SEASON SINCE I STARTED PRODUCING MY BRAND IN ITALY 22 YEARS AGO AND IT IS STILL RUN TODAY BY THE 3RD GENERATION OF THE SAME FAMILY THAT STARTED IT IN 1966.

LAST SEASON’S DUVET DONUTS ARE TRANSFORMED INTO SPRING CONFECTIONS IN SILK ORGANZA AND ALSO A TULLE PRODUCED OUTSIDE OF MILANO, ITALY, FROM ECONYL®, A RECYCLED YARN MADE IN ITALY USING 100% WASTE MATERIAL THAT WOULD OTHERWISE POLLUTE OUR LAND AND WATERS.

SOME DONUTS AND JACKETS ARE GEOMETRICALLY TRACED WITH FRILLED LAYERED STRIPS OF DENIMS THAT ARE STONEWASHED, OVER-DYED, WAXED, FRAYED, AND SEWN ONTO A NYLON MESH BASE. OUR DENIM WASH HOUSE IN VENETO, ITALY, USES ONLY ZDHC-CERTIFIED PRODUCTS AND UTILIZES A WATER PURIFYING PROCESS THAT ENABLES THEM TO RECYCLE A LARGE PORTION OF THE WATER USED.

I MENTION OUR EFFORTS TOWARDS SUSTAINABILITY NOT OUT OF VIRTUOUSNESS– WE HAVE A WAYS TO GO– BUT AS AN EXAMPLE THAT WE CAN ALL START SOMEWHERE.

THE LIGHTEST HABOTAI SILK IS CUT INTO TUNICS AND HOODED ROBES THAT FILL LIKE SAILS AND FLOAT AROUND THE FIGURE IN CONSTANT MOVEMENT. THESE ARE WORN OVER THE SIMPLEST VOLUMINOUS GOWNS OR JUMPSUITS IN SILK GAZAR THAT CRISPLY STAND AWAY FROM THE BODY LIKE SUMPTUOUSLY IMPOSING TENTS.

HUN’S TRAVEL BAG, NOW WITH OUR CERBERUS HOOK CLOSURE, IS WORN SLUNG ACROSS THE BODY, BECOMING ANOTHER DRAPED ELEMENT IN A FEW SHORT DRAPED BUBBLE SILHOUETTES.

LAST SEASON’S PLATFORMED SPLINT BOOTS ARE SPLIT OPEN TO CREATE SANDALS, EFFECTIVELY STRAPPING LEATHER PILLOWS TO THE ANKLE.

DIANA ROSS ALLOWED ME TO DO A REMIX OF HER MOST RECENTLY RELEASED SONG, WHICH I IMAGINED AS A HYMN, WITH THE REPEATED REFRAIN “I STILL BELIEVE IN LOVE” AS A SIMPLE BUT DETERMINED EXPRESSION OF FAITH AND HOPE.